Pruning Roses
"Nothing seems impossible to the Rosarian who doesn't have to do it all (her/)himself."
The Rambler, The American Rose Magazine
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Why you should Prune, When to Prune, and How to Prune

Note: If there are as many ways to grow roses as there are rosarians, there are as many theories on pruning as there are pruners. This information is offered as a general guideline for the South Puget Sound area.


Why you should prune
The main purposes of pruning are:

  1. To improve the appearance of the bush,
  2. To stimulate growth,
  3. Control over-wintering bugs and diseases, and
  4. To control the quality and quantity of blooms.

Tall, thin canes produce more but smaller blooms. Fewer, thicker canes result in fewer but larger and better quality blooms. Light pruning is not recommended for most hybrid teas because tall, spindly bushes result. Moderate pruning means removal of 1/2 - 2/3 of the existing bush, while hard pruning leaves only 3-4 canes 8 to 12 inches long.

Bushes are always improved and never killed by pruning. Unpruned roses bloom on small cane tips, go to seed, and become dormant. Poor or "incorrect" pruning is better than no pruning at all. The general rule is to prune strong-growing bushes moderately and weak growers severely.

When to prune

Fall pruning is normally done around Thanksgiving. Bushes should be cut back to about half their original height and leaves should be removed. This will prevent winter winds from whipping the bushes and loosening the root systems. Removing the leaves is done for hygienic reasons because insect eggs and fungal spores overwinter on leaves. It is a good practice to mound soil or mulch 6 to 8 inches deep around the plant to protect it from winter damage.

Spring pruning is usually done during the second week of March around south Puget Sound -- a week or so later at higher elevations. First remove the mounding material to expose the lower plant and canes. Then follow directions below on "How to prune."

How to prune

  1. Take out all dead wood.
  2. Take out all crossed or twiggy growth.
  3. Keep the center open for good air circulation.
  4. Cut all canes to white or pale green pith. Any brown coloration in the pith indicates a dead or dying cane, in which case the cane should be pruned to a lower bud eye, clear to the crown if necessary, in order to find live pith.
  5. Cut approximately 1/4 to 1/2 inch above a bud, on a downward slant, away from the bud. Cut to an outside bud to make the plants grow wider. Cut to an inside bud for more upright growth on a plant that has a tendency to sprawl.
  6. Use sharp tools for cutting. Use a keyhole saw or lopper to cut thick, woody, old canes.
  7. Cut canes at uneven heights for a longer blooming period and better appearance.
  8. Select from 3 to 6 strong basal shoots from previous year's growth. Remove all other growth. Then prune those canes left.
  9. Accomplish as many chores as possible just after pruning before the bushes have sprouted. Remove mulch from the bud union, weed, and clean up the rose garden. This prevents breaking off the new shoots when doing these things later.
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